Shunny' Slurps at The Greenhouse - Part 2

With such a magnificent wine list further exploration was irresistable and our sommelier Michael was warming to the task. We debated the merits of the excellent 2004 Vacqueyras Clos des Cazaux Cuvee des Templiers but ultimately decided it would drown out the still lingering flavours of the Lirac. Instead he recommended a 2004 Saumur Chateau de Fosse-Seche 'Le Clef de Voute' from passionate winemaker Guillaume Keller to accompany our cheese.

A blend of (mainly) cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon this wine had a tannic structure with earthy plant and floral aromas - characteristics of a classic 100% cabernet franc wine - but with additional layers of richness. It was initally quite closed with the tannins leaving a bitterness in the mouth but after about half an hour it had opened out, becoming much more balanced and complex. A firm, structured wine with rich dark fruit and a hint of blueberry and cassis on the palate. A clear contrast to the Lirac and one for the notebook based on the subtlety of the blend but perhaps not quite what we were looking for. Good value at £34.

Moving on again we decided to try a 2005 Nero D'Avola from the excellent Morgante estate in southern Sicily where the brilliant Umbrian Riccardo Cotarella is wine consultant. Aged for 4 months in French oak this glistening ruby red wine with its intense aromas of vanilla and sweet spice was instantly pleasing. Pure cherry fruit flavours with balanced acidity on the palate and a powerful finish. A versatile and satisfying wine, keenly priced at £30.

To complete our voyage through this cornucopia of fine wines we had a glass of a 2006 Dolc Mataro from Alta Alella in Catalonia. This sweet red is made from late harvested mataro grapes macerated for 6 months in stainless steel vats to preserve as much of the skin colour as possible then aged for 2 months in French oak after light pressing. A delicate mix of dried red berries, herbs and sugar with a touch of bitterness. The finish is long and dry and you could imagine drinking this wine as a digestif but it was a delightfully exotic accompaniement to our desserts. £11 a glass.

It would take you a long time to sample all the wines from the outstanding Greenhouse list (and many you probably would not want to being either beyond your reach financially or simply better sampled at home) but I for one plan on many return visits. Chosen carefully, using the excellent advice on offer, there are some very fine wines to be enjoyed at prices that will not break the bank.