Shunny's Slurps at The Greenhouse - Part 1

It is not surprising that The Greenhouse has won the Wine Spectator Grand Award for their wine list 4 years in a row. The magnificent list covers all of the main wine producing regions and most of the best wines they have to offer - the world is your oyster, provided you have the budget! But this is also a list for ordinary mortals and includes an impressive range by the glass and many interesting selections under £40 a bottle - a high hurdle rate you may say but then this is an haute cuisine restaurant in Central London. Our sommelier Michael was both friendly and helpful and so don't be afraid to take advice. From the early selections we made he quickly established our area of interest and range of spend and subsequently provided valuable guidance with a light touch.

We settled in with a glass of the house champagne, Devaux Grand Reserve. Established in 1846 and run by one of the great characters of Champagne Madame Augusta Devaux (the house was renamed Maison Veuve Devaux in her honour) for many years champagne Devaux is typical of the Aube. That is to say the blend is predominantly pinot noir (65%) with most of the balance being chardonnay. Produced only from the first pressings and aged for at least 3 years this well structured, pale yellow wine has fine bubbles and a classic aroma of wild flowers. Elegant, well balanced and with great length this is an ideal aperitif champagne.

I had intended to order a 2002 Chablis from the admirable Helene Perrot but the 2002 had become the 2006 which was slightly less appealing so instead I chose a 2002 Marsannay 'Les Clos' from Regis Bouviers. This prestigious Cru Classe in the Cote de Nuits is often overlooked in favour of its southerly nighbours and is in any case better known for red wines. 2002 was a spectacularly good vintage for white burgundies and this well made wine was a prime example. Bursting with fresh aromas of lime and lemon, rich chardonnay fruit on the palate and a lingering well rounded finish. A perfect accompaniment to our steamed tuna starters and a wine with scope for further development (sadly for you we consumed their last bottle!). Good value at £38.

One of our group chose a foie gras and partridge terrine starter and preferred a richer style of white as accompaniment. Our sommelier graciously proposed a glass of 2006 Jurancon Sec from Charles Hours not normally available by the glass. Based on the petit manseng grape this rich dry white with its heady aromas of white clover and honeysuckle and flavours of fig on the palate hit the spot exactly. A good balance between richness and acidity it was a perfect companion for the terrine.

I have long been a fan of the wines of Lirac in the Southern Rhone nearby Tavel. In recent years the wines have become firmer due to the increased use of mouvedre in the blend. They also have greater depth and complexity, possibly due to the influx of new owners from Chateauneuf du Pape. There is no finer example of the 'new' Lirac than the wines of Domaine de la Mordoree and especially 'La Dame Rousse'. Having had the 2005 on an earlier visit to Chez Bruce I was especially interested to try the 2001 on offer here. 2001 was an exceptional vintage for this area of the Rhone with grenache and syrah dominating the blend resulting in a more supple and fruit driven style. Our sommelier decanted the wine which helped to release the grape based tannins that were a fetaure of this vintage. Generous aromas of ripe red and black plum fruits with a hint of spice led to juicy mulberry and dark cherry flavours on the palate. A well integrated wine with smooth tannins and a lingering finish. We enjoyed it so much we ordered a second - and at £32 a bottle why not!?

The Greenhouse
27a Hay's Mews
Mayfair
London W1J 5NY
Tel:+44 (0)20 7499 3331
Fax:+44 (0)20 7499 5368

Reservations:
reservations@greenhouserestaurant.co.uk