Shunny's Slurps at Thackeray's

I recently had the opportunity to lunch at Thackeray's in Tunbridge Wells with our friend, and occasional contributor to The Big Black Pudding, John Wright. It is exactly as he says, a sophisticated but friendly restaurant serving haute cuisine to discerning diners. At lunch the prix fixe menu is sensationally good value. The main reason for this, our hostess explained, is that they want to encourage lunchtime trade but that it also provides a testbed for the kitchen to try out new recipes which may later be added to the A La Carte. A smart system and great for lovers of fine luncheons as we are!

JW provided a fine review of Thackeray's and you can read the full article here: http://www.thebigblackpudding.com/search?q=credit+crunch

The wine list sets the same tone as the food menu and is clearly aimed at the discerning drinker. Not too long and, at first glance, quite expensive but with great attention to detail. Once you get your head around the fact that the wines on offer are among the best in class then the pricing is put into perspective.

House champagne, the De Nauroy Brut NV, is a great price performer. Made from only the first fruit pressings and with 20% reserve wines in the blend this is a deep, rich and fruity wine that is immediately approachable. The fine mousse delivers a wonderful bouquet of ripe fruit and brioche. Fresh and lemony on the palate leading to a smooth and elegant finish. Top drawer product and very good value at £39.50.

On their regular visits to Thackeray's the (now) 2006 Rully from Domaine Briday has become the white wine of choice for John and his partner Lynne. And a fine choice too! Rully is the first wine district of the Cote Challonaise, effectively a southern extension of Santenay with which it shares many characteristics. Domaine Briday is in the heart of Rully and has earned a reputation for producing some of the most stylish and rich wines of the Challonaise. Michel Briday and his son Stephane (who now runs the vineyard) harvest their vines by hand and ferment in small batches in temperature controlled stainless steel vats before blending. Their wines are characterised by exceptional purity and well balanced fruit. This pale straw coloured example from the excellent 2006 vintage was full bodied with a rich concentration of fruit and powerful flavours of chardonnay on the palate. It took a little while to open out and will definitely keep well. At £42 not cheap but a deeply satisfying and well made wine.

My participation in lunch encouraged us (or perhaps it was just me!?!) to select a red wine and we chose a 2007 Dolcetto D'Alba Rosanna from Ceretto. As a result of their dedication and drive brothers Bruno and Marcello Ceretto have built their wine business into a highly respected brand recognised around the world. The Monsordo-Bernadina project is typical of the Ceretto family spirit. Taking an old farmstead on the outskirts of Alba they built up a fully equipped, state of the art winemaking operation around which are several vineyards, including Rosanna, producing grapes for many of their well known labels. This site is also the centre for their financial and commercial operations. Rosanna is considered one of the top Dolcetto crus and this 2007 was a fine example. Its glinting purple colour, delicate blueberry nose with a hint of spice and honey made it instantly appealing. Although dry on the palate, which is typical of this style, its mild tannins were well rounded with a hint of almonds on the finish. A versatile red well suited to lunchtime drinking and very good value at £34.

So, Thackeray's wine list may appear expensive but actually for the consistently high quality of wines on offer their prices are generally good value. Choose carefully and take advice from the knowledgable staff and you will not be disappointed. Life is too short to drink bad wine!