Wednesday, 11 February 2009

Restaurant Review - Tentazioni, Bermondsey

Although strictly in Bermondsey this smart Italian is part of the complex of buildings that make up Tea Trade Wharf. The entrance is in an alleyway off Mill Street and has the feel of an American speakeasy. Entering the glitzy dining room with its light wood floor, plush cream leather chairs, plum coloured walls and dramatic lighting you become oblivious to the stark industrial surroundings outside. And in the skillful hands of Head Chef and Proprietor Riccardo Giacomini and his team you know that you are about to enjoy fine Italian hospitality and cuisine.

There are several fixed price menus at lunch and dinner ranging from £11.95 for 2 courses at lunch to £24.95 for 3 at dinner and a very interesting 7 course 'Degustazione' for £41.50. The tasting menu aside the choices tend to be plainer than the a la carte and portions a little smaller. Still exceptional cuisine prepared from locally sourced, free range ingredients and if the choices appeal there are few better bargains to be had anywhere else in London.


We chose from the a la carte as we were in no hurry and wanted to try a broad range of the dishes on offer. The result was exceptional, each dish lovingly prepared and beautifully presented. Our starters included sauteed mixed wild mushrooms with Spatzley gnocchi which was packed with flavour and a homemade rustic fettucine with a ragu of quail and fresh peas which was rich and satisfying. The 'Casunziet' homemade red beetroot ravioli in a butter sauce with poppy seeds was a taste sensation!


The kitchen was well into its stride as we moved on to our main courses. The pistachio crusted rare cooked tuna fillet with spicy borlotti beans and fried onion rings was wonderfully tangy and the addition of walnuts and truffle oil to the baked chicken breast and sauteed spinach put this simple dish on a different level. The venison fillet and juniper berries with savoy cabbage, pumpkin ravioli and port sauce was truly exceptional. Every dish had clearly been carefully designed and the cooking was virtually faultless. Not mainstream but definably Italian cuisine that is easily on a par with other top kitchen's in London such as Assaggi and Riva.

We shared a plate of Italian cheeses - Tallegio, Pecorino, Gorgonzola etc. - which were all in perfect condition. Beautifully served with honey and spiced fruits this was far from a sideshow to our main meal but a course to celebrate in its own right with chunks of fresh Italian bread. Although flagging a little the desserts were too tempting to pass on altogether. The homemade ice cream and sorbet selections are sumptuous - creamy vanilla with pods from Madagascar, bitter dark chocolate and Scicilian lemon sorbet for example. 'Castagnole' Italian style fritters with a mango sauce - very indulgent. And the finale - authentic Italian coffee, rich, dark and slightly bitter with a zest of lemon. Marvellous.

A splendid afternoon of exceptional cuisine served with enthusiasm and love. Perhaps we were fortunate that the restaurant was not very busy on our visit but somehow I don't think so. At Tentazioni I am sure they strive to achieve their high standards for every visitor and I hope they carry on doing so for a long time to come!

Tentazioni
2 Mill Street, Lloyds Wharf
London SE1 2BD
020 7237 1100
info@tentazioni.co.uk
www.tentazioni.co.uk

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