There's no F Word at the French Table

I watched The F Word anxiously last night as one of our favourite neighbourhood restaurants, The French Table in Surbiton, battled it out with rivals Bouchon Bistro from Hexham in the French Restaurant category of the new Channel 4 series.

Though I'd rather have been biting into the dishes that we being prepared, instead I found myself biting my nails in anticipation of the results of the three heats. With a deservedly comprehensive win to The French Table in the first round with their unctious looking fois gras I thought this was going to be a slam dunk to Eric and Fred but Bouchon Bistro pulled back with a decent effort in the main course with their pan fried grey mullet (performing well on flavour rather than presentation) scoring well against TFT's lamb. It was almost neck and neck going into the dessert round with both teams preparing a traditional crepe suzette. Quite what happened to Eric in this round I just don't know - although Gordon Ramsay's incessant and loud babbling can't have helped - as the dishes he was sending out looked lacklustre at best, causing him to lose the round to Bouchon Bistro hands down.

So, although winning both the starter and main course rounds our friends at TFT found themselves losing on points overall simply because of the poor effort in the final round. To me this seemed a harsh result but that's the way the cookie crumbles - or the crepe collapses, so to speak. The good news for TFT however is the TV enormous exposure they enjoyed - I do hope however that I can still get a table!

Shunny' Slurps at The Greenhouse - Part 2

With such a magnificent wine list further exploration was irresistable and our sommelier Michael was warming to the task. We debated the merits of the excellent 2004 Vacqueyras Clos des Cazaux Cuvee des Templiers but ultimately decided it would drown out the still lingering flavours of the Lirac. Instead he recommended a 2004 Saumur Chateau de Fosse-Seche 'Le Clef de Voute' from passionate winemaker Guillaume Keller to accompany our cheese.

A blend of (mainly) cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon this wine had a tannic structure with earthy plant and floral aromas - characteristics of a classic 100% cabernet franc wine - but with additional layers of richness. It was initally quite closed with the tannins leaving a bitterness in the mouth but after about half an hour it had opened out, becoming much more balanced and complex. A firm, structured wine with rich dark fruit and a hint of blueberry and cassis on the palate. A clear contrast to the Lirac and one for the notebook based on the subtlety of the blend but perhaps not quite what we were looking for. Good value at £34.

Moving on again we decided to try a 2005 Nero D'Avola from the excellent Morgante estate in southern Sicily where the brilliant Umbrian Riccardo Cotarella is wine consultant. Aged for 4 months in French oak this glistening ruby red wine with its intense aromas of vanilla and sweet spice was instantly pleasing. Pure cherry fruit flavours with balanced acidity on the palate and a powerful finish. A versatile and satisfying wine, keenly priced at £30.

To complete our voyage through this cornucopia of fine wines we had a glass of a 2006 Dolc Mataro from Alta Alella in Catalonia. This sweet red is made from late harvested mataro grapes macerated for 6 months in stainless steel vats to preserve as much of the skin colour as possible then aged for 2 months in French oak after light pressing. A delicate mix of dried red berries, herbs and sugar with a touch of bitterness. The finish is long and dry and you could imagine drinking this wine as a digestif but it was a delightfully exotic accompaniement to our desserts. £11 a glass.

It would take you a long time to sample all the wines from the outstanding Greenhouse list (and many you probably would not want to being either beyond your reach financially or simply better sampled at home) but I for one plan on many return visits. Chosen carefully, using the excellent advice on offer, there are some very fine wines to be enjoyed at prices that will not break the bank.

Restaurant Review - The Greenhouse, Mayfair

This elegant restaurant off Hays Mews in Mayfair, refurbished again after the departure of Bjorn van der Horst to soften the feel of the spacious dining room, is once again a relaxed setting for an haute cuisine lunch or dinner. Very much in the style of head chef Antonin Bonnet behind whose quiet and reserved personality lies a culinary skill and intensity that puts him among the top chefs in Europe. So expect a meal here to be a serious affair but one in which enjoyment is also paramount.

I visited for lunch recently with a few friends to sample the prix fixe lunch to test whether an haute cuisine experience like this could be had for £75 a head including a bottle of wine each, coffee and service. And if we had stuck to the script we certainly would have proved the point!

The prix fixe lunch menu was short - three choices for each course - but seemed to have made no concessions on quality or creativity and we were offered amuse bouches as well. To start we selected steamed tuna wrapped in Cornish greens with squid and sweet onion tempura and soy sauce and foie gras and partridge terrine with fig chutney, a chocolate reduction and sorrel leaf. The tuna was sumptuous and the tempura perfectly light, the combination of flavours distinct but integrated. The terrine was a good balance of meat and liver, the richness of the chutney and chocolate delivering an intensely luxurious taste sensation. A magnificent start!

Most of us chose the confit pork belly with pont neuf potato, apple, cider jus and mustard espuma while one chose the shellfish and butter seaweed risotto with samphire and herb jus. Although a comparatively inexpensive cut of meat the pork belly was lean with rich fat and crispy skin and beautifully presented. A generous quantity of fine shellfish lightly folded into the seaweed risotto and served with crunchy samphire made even this simple dish a work of art. These were dishes from the top drawer, visually exciting and a delight to eat.

At this point we slipped in a cheese course and, as expected, the selection was carefully judged and in perfect condition. It is available as an option on the prix fixe menu for a supplement but we also wanted to sample the desserts! I am glad we did. The black olive Madeleine with lemon curd, fresh pineapple and basil sorbet was worth it for the aromas alone and a fascinating combination of flavours. The milk chocolate mousse with crunchy praline and candied almond ice cream was a luxurious confection yet amazingly light.

In fact, lightness of touch is my abiding memory of this fabulous lunch from the magnificent cuisine of Antonin Bonnet, the friendly and precise service of Jean-Marie (together with the whole Front of House team) and the knowledge and enthusiasm of our sommelier Michael. There is no finer hommage to haute cuisine than you will find at The Greenhouse - Prix Fixe/A La Carte, Lunch or Dinner. I recommend you get along as soon as you can. Bon appetit!

Hotel TerraVina, Ashurst New Forest

A slight deviation from our usual reviews - here is a wonderful review of this New Forest hotel by guest writer Graham Clarke - enjoy!

For those of you who haven’t had the opportunity to meet with Gerard Basset and his wife, Nina, at their beautiful boutique hotel, the Hotel TerraVina in the New Forest, why are you waiting ? Having a colleague arrive from Texas last week gave me the perfect chance to try out the much lauded hotel and restaurant.

Gerard and Nina bought the hotel in 2007 and spent over £1.4M in renovations and have created Heaven in the New Forest. Gerard was one of the co-founders of the Hotel duVin Group but sold his interest to explore new opportunities – the result being the TerraVina. Gerard is also one of the top Sommeliers in the world and has created a restaurant and wine list to travel miles for. The Hotel only has 11 rooms, each unique and extremely comfortable. The restaurant has 60 covers in a beautiful setting with a glass wall overlooking a terrace and in to fabulous gardens. The service is superb, relaxed, informal and unobtrusive but seemingly there when needed – I don’t know how they do it but they just seemed to sense when we needed something. Gerard and Nina glide around the restaurant, making sure everything is just right . All of the staff are very friendly and knowledgeable. Gerard’s love of wine comes across in the wine list although how much of this is his influence and how much comes from Laura Rhys, the Hotel’s resident sommelier and the UK Young Sommelier of the Year, I’m not sure so let’s agree they’ve both done a fantastic job.

Onto the food – Wayne had the blue cheese and pancetta salad whilst I decided to stay seasonal and have the British Asparagus served with a soft boiled hen’s egg. Both were excellent although I still don’t get this “fad” of serving things on slate – what’s that all about ? We both then succumbed to the Solent Sea Bass served with a homemade pasta – just supreme. Beautifully presented and finished with a spoonful of caviar, the food was incredible. Although Wayne and I hadn’t seen each other for over 3 years, barely a word was spoken during the dinner which shows we’re both either a) exceedingly boring or b) too appreciative of fine food to want to spoil the pleasure with small talk !

Being rebellious, we decided to go for a red wine from the wine list and after discussion with Gerard we plumped for a pinot noir from Bourgogne, a delicious 2003 Vielles Vignes from Pierre Naigeon. This complemented the fish beautifully and soon disappeared so on to the Champagne – a fantastically good value Remy Massin, the house Champagne.

That was it, I was done for although Wayne, being a good ‘ole Texan boy, did manfully order the Treacle and Lime tart served with homemade ice cream but even he had to admit defeat halfway through. Coffee followed before finally admitting we were satisfied !

Gerard and Nina also organise some great evening events including, on April 26^th a Sabrage Dinner – “The Art of Sabrage”, hosted by Julian White, UK Ambassador of the Confrere du Sabre d’Or. So those of you who wish to be initiated into the art of opening a bottle of Champagne with a sword and being given a certificate to prove it, should book soon !

Have a look at their website www.hotelterravina.co.uk for more inspiration – you will also see the multiple recommendations they’ve received ranging from Conde Nast Traveller – the Hot List 2008 through to the Remy Martin 2009 Restaurant Awards. Much deserved and a great place to visit – just please don’t tell too many people, I would still like to be able to get in !

Graham Clarke

Shunny's Slurps at The Greenhouse - Part 1

It is not surprising that The Greenhouse has won the Wine Spectator Grand Award for their wine list 4 years in a row. The magnificent list covers all of the main wine producing regions and most of the best wines they have to offer - the world is your oyster, provided you have the budget! But this is also a list for ordinary mortals and includes an impressive range by the glass and many interesting selections under £40 a bottle - a high hurdle rate you may say but then this is an haute cuisine restaurant in Central London. Our sommelier Michael was both friendly and helpful and so don't be afraid to take advice. From the early selections we made he quickly established our area of interest and range of spend and subsequently provided valuable guidance with a light touch.

We settled in with a glass of the house champagne, Devaux Grand Reserve. Established in 1846 and run by one of the great characters of Champagne Madame Augusta Devaux (the house was renamed Maison Veuve Devaux in her honour) for many years champagne Devaux is typical of the Aube. That is to say the blend is predominantly pinot noir (65%) with most of the balance being chardonnay. Produced only from the first pressings and aged for at least 3 years this well structured, pale yellow wine has fine bubbles and a classic aroma of wild flowers. Elegant, well balanced and with great length this is an ideal aperitif champagne.

I had intended to order a 2002 Chablis from the admirable Helene Perrot but the 2002 had become the 2006 which was slightly less appealing so instead I chose a 2002 Marsannay 'Les Clos' from Regis Bouviers. This prestigious Cru Classe in the Cote de Nuits is often overlooked in favour of its southerly nighbours and is in any case better known for red wines. 2002 was a spectacularly good vintage for white burgundies and this well made wine was a prime example. Bursting with fresh aromas of lime and lemon, rich chardonnay fruit on the palate and a lingering well rounded finish. A perfect accompaniment to our steamed tuna starters and a wine with scope for further development (sadly for you we consumed their last bottle!). Good value at £38.

One of our group chose a foie gras and partridge terrine starter and preferred a richer style of white as accompaniment. Our sommelier graciously proposed a glass of 2006 Jurancon Sec from Charles Hours not normally available by the glass. Based on the petit manseng grape this rich dry white with its heady aromas of white clover and honeysuckle and flavours of fig on the palate hit the spot exactly. A good balance between richness and acidity it was a perfect companion for the terrine.

I have long been a fan of the wines of Lirac in the Southern Rhone nearby Tavel. In recent years the wines have become firmer due to the increased use of mouvedre in the blend. They also have greater depth and complexity, possibly due to the influx of new owners from Chateauneuf du Pape. There is no finer example of the 'new' Lirac than the wines of Domaine de la Mordoree and especially 'La Dame Rousse'. Having had the 2005 on an earlier visit to Chez Bruce I was especially interested to try the 2001 on offer here. 2001 was an exceptional vintage for this area of the Rhone with grenache and syrah dominating the blend resulting in a more supple and fruit driven style. Our sommelier decanted the wine which helped to release the grape based tannins that were a fetaure of this vintage. Generous aromas of ripe red and black plum fruits with a hint of spice led to juicy mulberry and dark cherry flavours on the palate. A well integrated wine with smooth tannins and a lingering finish. We enjoyed it so much we ordered a second - and at £32 a bottle why not!?

The Greenhouse
27a Hay's Mews
Mayfair
London W1J 5NY
Tel:+44 (0)20 7499 3331
Fax:+44 (0)20 7499 5368

Reservations:
reservations@greenhouserestaurant.co.uk

Shunny's Slurps at Thackeray's

I recently had the opportunity to lunch at Thackeray's in Tunbridge Wells with our friend, and occasional contributor to The Big Black Pudding, John Wright. It is exactly as he says, a sophisticated but friendly restaurant serving haute cuisine to discerning diners. At lunch the prix fixe menu is sensationally good value. The main reason for this, our hostess explained, is that they want to encourage lunchtime trade but that it also provides a testbed for the kitchen to try out new recipes which may later be added to the A La Carte. A smart system and great for lovers of fine luncheons as we are!

JW provided a fine review of Thackeray's and you can read the full article here: http://www.thebigblackpudding.com/search?q=credit+crunch

The wine list sets the same tone as the food menu and is clearly aimed at the discerning drinker. Not too long and, at first glance, quite expensive but with great attention to detail. Once you get your head around the fact that the wines on offer are among the best in class then the pricing is put into perspective.

House champagne, the De Nauroy Brut NV, is a great price performer. Made from only the first fruit pressings and with 20% reserve wines in the blend this is a deep, rich and fruity wine that is immediately approachable. The fine mousse delivers a wonderful bouquet of ripe fruit and brioche. Fresh and lemony on the palate leading to a smooth and elegant finish. Top drawer product and very good value at £39.50.

On their regular visits to Thackeray's the (now) 2006 Rully from Domaine Briday has become the white wine of choice for John and his partner Lynne. And a fine choice too! Rully is the first wine district of the Cote Challonaise, effectively a southern extension of Santenay with which it shares many characteristics. Domaine Briday is in the heart of Rully and has earned a reputation for producing some of the most stylish and rich wines of the Challonaise. Michel Briday and his son Stephane (who now runs the vineyard) harvest their vines by hand and ferment in small batches in temperature controlled stainless steel vats before blending. Their wines are characterised by exceptional purity and well balanced fruit. This pale straw coloured example from the excellent 2006 vintage was full bodied with a rich concentration of fruit and powerful flavours of chardonnay on the palate. It took a little while to open out and will definitely keep well. At £42 not cheap but a deeply satisfying and well made wine.

My participation in lunch encouraged us (or perhaps it was just me!?!) to select a red wine and we chose a 2007 Dolcetto D'Alba Rosanna from Ceretto. As a result of their dedication and drive brothers Bruno and Marcello Ceretto have built their wine business into a highly respected brand recognised around the world. The Monsordo-Bernadina project is typical of the Ceretto family spirit. Taking an old farmstead on the outskirts of Alba they built up a fully equipped, state of the art winemaking operation around which are several vineyards, including Rosanna, producing grapes for many of their well known labels. This site is also the centre for their financial and commercial operations. Rosanna is considered one of the top Dolcetto crus and this 2007 was a fine example. Its glinting purple colour, delicate blueberry nose with a hint of spice and honey made it instantly appealing. Although dry on the palate, which is typical of this style, its mild tannins were well rounded with a hint of almonds on the finish. A versatile red well suited to lunchtime drinking and very good value at £34.

So, Thackeray's wine list may appear expensive but actually for the consistently high quality of wines on offer their prices are generally good value. Choose carefully and take advice from the knowledgable staff and you will not be disappointed. Life is too short to drink bad wine!